The Queen Inn reviewed: A jewel in Wales’ (and Europe’s) culinary crown

Stephen Price

Cwmbran’s Queen Inn needs no introduction. Crowned the best vegan restaurant in Europe, expectations are high for anyone lucky enough to get a table, but is it worth it?

At the outset, I’ll admit I’m one of those much maligned herbivores that lay claim to the entire month of January (and all eleven months besides, if you believe the press).

But pulling up this week (and not for the first time) with two other vegans and four meat-loving omnivores in tow for scientific purposes, I not only got a good excuse to try another item (or two) on the menu, I also got to hear how the other side think.

Happy customers and animals 

So, a bit of background before we order…

The Queen Inn in Cwmbran became fully plant based two years ago when it removed animal products from its menu for Veganuary 2022.

Two years later, it has been named the fourth best plant-based restaurant in the world and the best in Europe by vegan guide, Happy Cow.

Since being named the number one restaurant on Happy Cow, The Queen Inn, Cwmbran, has seen “a huge surge in bookings” thanks to menu items including gourmet versions of pub classics like f*sh and chips and ch*cken and b*con pie.

The Queen Inn, established in the 1800s, is a family-owned business in the Welsh town and owner Ryan Edwards said the team were “over the moon” to have reached the top spot on the list.

Today

Driving towards the restaurant, you can’t help but question if you’re in the right place. A restaurant of this stature must be in a thriving city or town centre, surely?

Europe’s leading vegan restaurant might sit on the slopes of an idyllic mountainside with a babbling brook outside complete with resident ducks, but getting there is a whistle stop tour of Cwmbran’s estates.

And if you’re lucky, you might even spot a life size dinosaur in an unassuming front garden on the drive up. It couldn’t be more Welsh if it tried.

Describing itself as the ‘world’s first plant-based steakhouse,’ The Queen Inn’s aim is to push plant-based dining in new directions, but there are no airs and graces here.

This is a ‘proper’ Welsh pub frequented by the friendly locals and tradespeople, as well as returning visitors from across the globe, and the warm and welcoming atmosphere is very much reflective of that.

Its high regard with returning locals who head there primarily for a drink, for a catch up, for community is also one of the reasons why the standard of the drinks are as important as the food.

I’ve lost count of the times a good meal has been let down by a poor drink at its side.

Whether it’s a warm beer or cheap flat cola, the interplay of atmosphere, food AND drink are of equal importance. And at The Queen Inn, they understand that.

So, with atmosphere and liquids addressed, let’s move on to the reason we came..

Food glorious food

The pub serves hyper-realistic plant-based meat cuts, including Redefine Meat flank and Juicy Marbles filet. This ‘meaty’ formula has helped attract vegans and non-vegans alike.

For those who prefer vegetable-based food, The Queen Inn also serves dishes like Cauliflower steak, Fable shiitake mushroom pie, and Chana masala.

But what did we order…

The waitress implored us to try the crispy beef, and by implored, I definitely got the sense that I’d be letting her down (or in danger) if I didn’t give it a shot, so that got added to the table along with spicy cauliflower wings and cheesey chips.

Collectively, we had the hunters ch*cken, carbonara, l*mb gyros kebabs, sweet and sour ch*cken noodles, Mexican chilli with loaded fries and creamy gnocchi mushrooms & spinach.

Did we need the sides? Absolutely not. These were portions that would make a Welsh nan proud. But did we want them? Yes siree.

Writing about food is like writing about other sensory experiences – the proof really is, and only is, in the pudding. So all I can say is that I, of vegan junk food addiction fame, was in seventh heaven.

But, perhaps more importantly since I need no conversion, so was my meat loving dad, and so was my sister’s partner who has meat at every meal, and so was my health-conscious vegetable loving sister. My fussy nephew ate his ch*cken nuggets as heartily as he might at McDonald’s.

Swapping forkfuls, us initiated vegans already knew that vegan food could be this good – I’m still here 24 meat-free years later after all – but it was the meat eaters who seemed to have the most rewarding time.

And we’re all going back soon if we’re lucky enough to get a table.

There are meat substitutes, and there are meat substitutes – the same goes for cheese. And this stuff is not only the best that’s out there, it’s prepared with such care and attention, the flavours are just sublime.

From the authentically cheesey creaminess of the pasta sauce and the bite of the crispy beef, to the eastern hints of the kebab and the spicy kick of the cauliflower wings, this is not basic or rushed food. Much thought and care has gone into every element of every dish.

I won’t pretend all vegan food is always good, just as all animal-based meals aren’t, but having navigated this path for long enough myself, the joy of (good) vegan food and community cannot be denied.

The phrase ‘no farmers no food’ applies as much to vegans as it does omnivores, but I am very much anti factory farming for both environmental and ethical reasons, so there is also a joy in putting your money where your mouth is and playing no part in that.

Eating at The Queen Inn is simply that – a joy.

Yes, yes, yes!

Owner Ryan Edwards told Plant Based News previously: “Most of our customers are animal-eaters who want a cruelty free way of eating their favourite pub meals.”

“We also get big parties with just a few vegans, who would usually go to non-vegan places where the token vegan will have a disappointing meal.”

“We always find that animal-eaters are pleasantly surprised at the quality of the meals. They realise that plant-based dishes don’t always taste like cardboard.”

So back to my initial question. Is it worth it?

This is joyous, and very special food – and food with a heart.

Visit with an open mind and, owing to the generous portion sizes, an empty stomach.

And if When Harry Met Sally ever gets a remake, the restaurant scene had better be filmed in Cwmbran – there will certainly be no need to fake anything if there’s a plate of that crispy beef on the table.

Find out more about The Queen Inn here.