Y Filltir Sgwâr/The Square Mile: The Punchbowl

In a year long series Tom Maloney, from Abersychan, shows how you can love a place so well it becomes a part of you.

There are places that I go very frequently and others that a little voice inside of me says to go now. Cwtched into the woodland below the Blorenge Mountain, near Blaenavon, the Punchbowl is one of those places for me and it is truly magical.

As a walk you can make this one as long or short as you like, linking it in with the Mon and Brec Canal at Llanfoist, Hill’s Tramroad and the Blorenge. What ever you choose to do I think I can guarantee you will not be disappointed.

Autumn suits this landscape and I suppose what makes it so magical for me is that it draws you in. Rather like a savouring a fine meal it is the panoramic views that are the ‘hors d’oeuvres’ which whet your appetite. They stretch as far as the eye can see; this is Wales at its very best.

From the majestic to the humble, a five-bar wooden field gate at one entrance, weathered silver grey with age is the perfect portal for any walk, but here it adds so much to the enjoyment because it does not give away the jewels that await the first-time rambler.

Fair to say, it’s a little bit on the wonky side and its lift latch needs the added help of a heavy iron chain to keep it closed, but, nevertheless, it is a thing of beauty too.

Before continuing I would very much recommend sturdy, waterproof boots and a stick. After the recent heavy rainfall, the paths here are quite waterlogged just now and on occasion a little slippery too.

A short stroll will lead you to the woodland proper and what a proper woodland this is. Rust orange bracken contrasts so beautifully with the mustard yellows and leaf greens of every shade and yet I have a feeling that the best of Autumn is yet to come.

The Punchbowl woodland is in the keep of ‘Coed Cadw, The Woodland Trust in Wales’. Coed Cadw literally translates as ‘Keep Trees or Keep Woods’ and what a good thing it is that we have trusts like this to ensure the continuing life of these precious natural environments.

The Woodland Trust has an excellent website that signposts a lot of very useful and interesting information such as this little extract about the geology and history of the site:

‘The unusual shape of the The Punchbowl was formed by glacial erosion during the last Ice Age. As the ice retreated, it left behind a circular, bowl-like depression called a cwm (the Welsh word for valley). The lake you see today is not a natural feature but was added later by people.

There is evidence of charcoal hearths among the trees, dating back to the site’s history as a working woodland. It’s thought that the beech trees were last pollarded around 1900.’

Curiously, because of the way it has been shaped and surrounded by trees you are almost upon this lovely pool of tranquility before you see it.

You certainly get the sense of the Ice Age and the effect of glacial erosion if you look carefully at the features of the hillside. At first, I wondered if the name was derived from the shape of a bowl from which the drink punch is served, but even after very brief internet research I was led to another more surprising and frankly violent alternative.

Tim Butters writing for the Forest of Dean and Wye Valley Review sets out another narrative in bold language:

‘Which makes its history as a hillside amphitheater where mountain fighters would brutally slug it out in illegal barefooted contests all the more savage and strange.

In 1889 Nantyglo’s David Rees and Brynmawr’s William Williams went toe to toe and eyeball to eyeball in a bruising and bloody 42 rounds which lasted an hour and 42 minutes. The prize? £10’

Perhaps the truth of its name lies somewhere in between. At any rate for me this is a place of peace now, a place to contemplate, recharge your batteries and be at one with the World.

The water level is as high as I have ever seen it, but a walk around the circumference of the lake is a delight, but … believe me it is easy to step into water above your ankles without any trouble at all.
The view from the other side changes dramatically. On Wednesday I was rewarded by a rhapsody of green and blue. It was such a lovely morning for a stroll.

Birdsong

I was captivated by the birdsong of a wren on my visit and stood and listened to its loud chirpy, staccato song for some time. In fact, I enjoyed it so much that I returned several times to the ‘little corner’ from where it was singing. Though I did not see it, the pleasure in its entertainment was beyond riches.

Soaring buzzards and the darting flight of whopping dragonflies were significant actors in Nature’s impromptu show as well.

A Chance Meeting

The best walks are when delightful things happen that you do not plan. How lovely it was to meet up with Nate, Amy, Jeff and Gail from Boulder, Colorado, USA.

It is a distance of 4526 miles from Boulder to Wales and The Punchbowl was on their itinerary of places to visit, how nice is that!

We struck up an easy conversation immediately and it was clear that they were very much loving
their stay in Wales.

“People are so willing and anxious to talk and engage with us, it’s really nice.” Amy Newbury

“It’s completely different to Colorado. We are not green at all, other than in the Spring.” Nate Newbury.

“This was the first time I have ever been over a stile! It was very exciting because I have never seen one before and now, we have done about 25!” Gail Strobel

“The Punchbowl, reminds of a place in Canada by Jasper, called Maligne Lake, with a tiny little island high up in the Rockies that is so picturesque and beautiful and … it takes you by surprise completely.” Jeff Strobel.

“Everything is just verdant!” Gail Strobel.

As we departed each other’s a company Gail reminded us all of a little tag line, motto, for a radio station back in the USA that has a message for us all:

“Here’s to a just, verdant and peaceful world.”

It was just a chance meeting, a short conversation of minutes really, but with so many lovely thoughts in those few minutes.

Idyllic

Verdant was much in my mind as I walked away from this idyllic spot, back up the hilly slope. It framed my thoughts as I stopped to admire a wonderful green view of Ysgyryd Fawr through a window at the edge of the woodland.

Thanks so much to the good folk of Boulder, Colorado for the reminder that we are so fortunate to live in the verdant land of Wales.

Diolch yn fawr iawn!