Y Filltir Sgwâr/The Square Mile: three trig points in one day

In a year long series Tom Maloney, from Abersychan, shows how you can love a place so well it becomes a part of you.

There was a time, not that long ago really, when most of my walking involved the use of a car. I am not sure of the exact moment, or what was the catalyst for a change in thinking, but there was a realisation that I really did not know my own patch that well at all.

Taking the plunge to focus much more on my immediate locality has been a voyage of discovery and I think it has also had such a positive impact on my own well-being as well. I walk every day, quite often these are short strolls of perhaps half an hour, but more often than not I can be out and about for an hour or more. There is always something new to see and the feel-good factor from a lovely walk is priceless.

Challenging

One of my most challenging walks is to complete a circular route taking in the three trig points that sit on the hills above Abersychan. Of all my routes this is the most demanding and takes a full day of walking.

So, what are Trig Points? Where better to find out than the Ordnance Survey itself. A short article by Jonathan Elder is an interesting little read:

‘The iconic trig pillar was designed by Brigadier Martin Hotine in 1935, with the first pillar put in place in 1936. Hotine designed them to triangulate (separate) Great Britain into a network of triangles, and accurately map the land.

Obsolete

Over eighty years later and trig pillars are now almost obsolete. Time and technologies have moved on, with use of aerial images, drones, satellites, and even a country-wide positioning system that has mapped Great Britain down to centimetre accuracy.’

Find out more about Trig Points here. 

A sharp realisation that the clocks were changing this weekend prompted me into action on Tuesday and I needed every hour of daylight.

The beginning of my trek was a steep ‘pull’ up the Cwmbyrgwm Valley. Although it is steep, there are ample opportunities to stop, gaze and catch your breath.

In truth, it’s a little like training for the rest of the walk, because surprisingly, it is most definitely not the steepest hike on this circular route.

I do really enjoy a day when the weather has an ‘edge’ and Tuesday had an edge for sure, where you could glory in the elements and the landscape. Though for while I was also glad of my waterproofs too!

There is a very welcome sense of achievement on reaching a trig point, a feeling that I think stays with you, it gives you a positive lift that is so important when you are out for a long walk.

Getting to the first trig at Brygwm was great, but this is an area not without its problems.

The paths here have been badly affected by off road motorbikes, creating deep furrows in the ground, that are made so much worse by the days and days of heavy rain. I find myself having so much sympathy with those who are tasked to look after the environment, because this is a plague on the land that does not seem to go away, despite huge efforts and cost.

For me, there is also another worrying concern here. I am aware of at least two proposals for wind farms that have been put forward and from what I understand there may be more to come. The turbines that have been proposed are colossal, measuring between 180m and 200m in height and my concern is that there has not been sufficient testing of the impact of these structures on a land environment.

As an aside, I find it very difficult to understand how the planning system works, it can be very confusing. On one occasion this year I attended a public consultation for a wind farm held at The Millennium Hall, Garndiffaith. I had thought that this was related to a previous event held at the hall earlier in the year. Eventually, through talking to the representatives at the consultation ‘the penny dropped’ – this was a different scheme!

Back to the walk!

I cannot recommend too highly the use of a stick as a third leg when negotiating waterlogged paths and my trusty pole came in mightily useful on this day. The rewards for the ‘slog’ were panoramic views of the places that I love to roam.

Cwm Sychan is a valley that holds secrets and seeing the valley from on high gives you a much greater appreciation of just how big the old British Ironworks reservoir may have been in its time. Dotted with beautiful beech trees in their autumn coats and blanketed in copper brown bracken it is amazing to think now that this valley had a use in the period of the Industrial Revolution.

For a little while I stopped to admire a majestic raven perched high on the topmost limb of a beech tree. Its loud, guttural croaking call filled the valley and then it flew. It was simply magnificent in flight. I don’t think I had fully appreciated before their size and what graceful fliers these massive birds actually are.

As if to show who the boss really was, for a short time the weather looked to be closing in with heavy rain on the way and I did wonder if it would be the ‘better part of valour’ to return home. On this walk there are many places to adjust your plans.

But as quickly as the dark clouds appeared, the sun followed on behind, it was just that sort of day. I mulled things over in my mind and set my feet to work once more and I was so glad that I did.

My next destination was the trig on top of Mynydd Farteg. I often think that this feature of the local landscape is much underrated, quite possibly because rather like a poor relation it seems to lack a gloriously rich roadside view like ‘Mynydd Pen-y-fâl – The Sugar Loaf’.

I was delighted to catch a grand view of the mountain framed by a puzzle picture of autumn colours. Watching the way the light seemed to dance and play on its slopes was mesmerizing and again so good for the soul.

I seem to recall it was Wainwright who once said that you should never give up the high ground on a walk, but I’m afraid to say on this adventure it is impossible to avoid the ups and downs. I think the trick is to enjoy the ‘in-betweens’.

For me, a lovely ‘in-between’ is the Ffrwd. The loud song of the stream was unmistakable in its intensity and could be heard for some time before crossing its course on a little bridge that would be very well suited to playing ‘Pooh Sticks’. I spent some time here reveling in its sound and power before making my way up the steep slope of Farteg Mountain.

It is impossible to miss the signs that warn of a danger of a crack on the mountain that poses a significant danger to dogs on all the approach points and this is one of the places that I personally avoid bringing my dogs.

Bearing this in mind, there is still much about the Farteg landscape that is captivating, where you can spend time in your own thoughts quietly contemplating life and … open the flask to have a cup of well-earned coffee before setting off for the last trig point of the day.

The weather had completely settled by this point and under blue sky with the warmth on the Sun on my back I made way down the mountain towards Farteg village and the little lane best known as Snail Creep leading to the main road at Cwmafon.

Almost mirroring Snail Creep on the other side of the valley is another lane. I say almost mirroring with some conviction, because this is a lane that makes Snail Creep look like a gentle stroll in the park.

Although I have trudged up it before, I always seem to forget just how much of a challenge it really is. I stopped to talk to several of the locals who were outside in their gardens as I went by and enquired about its name.

As we talked a little thought of Clint Eastwood starring in the Spaghetti Westerns as ‘the man with no name’ came into my mind as it would appear that this is ‘The Lane with No Name’. It deserves to be called something fitting that is for sure. From near the top, looking back to where you have been the view of Mynydd Farteg is again just stunning.

On reaching the rugged, open hillside landscape once more I made my way to Mynydd Garnclochy, known locally as ‘The Devil’s Heap of Stones’.

I would say that having a good local knowledge of this terrain is absolutely essential. The paths were as waterlogged as I have ever seen them, barely distinguishable from streams and it would be so easy to lose your footing into a hidden bog if you are unaware of what to look for.

And yet I loved every minute of this stretch. It was lovely to witness the magic of the sun’s rays standing on the Devil’s Heap and as I surveyed the panorama I had a quiet sense of contentment and achievement.

There was just enough time left for me to make my way to the last trig point for the day at Mynydd Garn-wen. The sun was again duly obliging in its generosity, casting a golden glow over the whole landscape. You really could not ask for anything finer.

Some helpful information about this walk:

Level of difficulty: High – Splitting the walk into several smaller routes the difficulty level of this walk is much reduced, but taken as whole this is a very demanding and challenging walk. Good local knowledge is essential.

Equipment needed: A full set of good waterproofs, first aid kit, walking stick(s), mobile phone & a full battery to be able to recharge and a good map – I always use an OS Map.

Food and Drink: Take enough food and drink for a full day and then add a little more.

Weather Forecast: Check the weather forecast before attempting routes like this. The forecast on this day was good, but there were moments during the day that I considered stopping and returning home.

Route Plan – There are multiple points of access for this walk and many ways to plan a circular walk. Bear in mind when planning your route to build in ways that you can return home if the weather turns for the worst whilst you are out and do let someone know your route plan.