Review: Boia Festival, St David’s, Pembrokeshire

Pierre Donahue

⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️

Way out in the most westerly point of Wales, St David’s in October might seem, to some, like an unlikely destination for a music festival. There’s no doubt it’s a long way from most places. But that isolation also means perhaps only the most dedicated music lovers make the pilgrimage to this ancient place sat on top of a spectacular Pembrokeshire peninsula.

As I arrive into the UKs smallest city on a damp, windswept Sunday afternoon, it almost feels like I’ve been let in on a secret. In fact, this place has been a site of pilgrimage for well over a thousand years. The atmospheric cathedral sits upon the site of a 6th century monastery built by none other than the patron saint of Wales himself – Saint David.

Boia, named after Clegyr Boia, a nearby prehistoric Hillfort, is deliberately small scale. Everything takes place within the existing infrastructure of the city: a hall, a tabernacle chapel and a collection of pubs. Whilst it may be a city in name, it’s basically just a very small town. It feels very cosy, friendly and intimate.

This is apparent the moment I enter the Farmers Arms to watch Laura J Martin and Iwan Morgan. The place is packed with people sitting on every available spot including the floor. Dogs, kids, young and old in steaming damp anoraks.

Laura is a mercurial and bewitching live performer who interweaves vocals, flute, mandolin and electronics. She is supported by Iwan Morgan, producer of the likes of Gruff Rhys, Euros Childs and Cate Le Bon. It’s a delightfully quirky brew.

A short walk up the street next finds me at the beautifully ornate Tabernacle chapel to sit captivated by Dominie Hooper. The multi-instrumentalist sound has drawn comparisons to PJ Harvey and John Parish and I can see why. Blending growling cello, with guitar and her soaring vocals echo wonderfully off the wooden pews and fills the space. It’s dark, unsettling and absolutely beautiful.

Taking a short breather to have a pint and a bowl of chips next to an open fire, I am starting to curse myself for not having come to this gem of an event before. But deciding then and there to return next year I am soon off to see Seamus Fogerty at the City Hall.

The Irish singer songwriter has a gritty, poetic voice and a laidback, warm gentle humour that I am immediately drawn to. His electronic folk is sensitive, soulful but not sentimental, and I’m feeling gently uplifted as darkness descends outside.

Willy Mason is next fresh from supporting Wolf Alice on their American tour. With a sound and energy reminiscent of a young Johnny Cash and Bob Dylan, Mason’s a seasoned performer and he effortlessly holds the room. Apologising profusely for mistakenly calling St David’s a town, his humble, authentic style endears himself to us all.

A quick dash back over to the Tabernacle, via The Bishops pub, and I was on a pew to see the legendary John Bramwell of I Am Kloot fame. John has been performing for over four decades and his unpretentious style fits perfectly with the vibe here.

In between absolute classic songs like ‘Northern Sky’,‘Proof’ and ‘No Fear of Falling’ John has us all in stitches with riotous between song banter. But while he is clearly a great raconteur, it’s his beguiling voice, guitar playing and words that has us all spellbound. He remains at the top of his game.

As the day and indeed the festival approaches its conclusion, everyone is packed into the atmospheric City Hall to watch headliners This Is The Kit. But not before festival organiser Steve Prior takes the stage to thank everyone involved and in attendance for another successful event.

Boia is run by St David’s Peninsula Music & Arts CIC, a not for profit community interest company. It’s clearly a project of passion for him and everyone involved and that shines bright through everything.

Steve announces that since the festival started five years ago This Is The Kit was top of his wish list. It’s not hard to see why. As the alias of musician Kate Stables, the band have had an impressive few years, regularly headlining festivals and they are the darling of BBC Radio 6 Music.

Her outside of the box, brand of folk music still sounds like nothing else I’ve heard. She’s carved her own niche. But clearly she remains humble and her understated style and enthusiasm charms us all.

This festival is a treasure. Its special spirit emanates from its core of passionate music loving volunteers, its well curated program of high quality music from around the world, and its stunning location on the wild Pembrokeshire coast.

With the magical presence of its ancient Celtic cathedral ever present. It takes the story of pilgrimage into the modern era. It has gained a new fan. I will most definitely return next year.