‘Climate chaos’: Growers warn that Wales is sleepwalking into a food crisis

Abby Neve

A food charity say they’ve known parents who are choosing to skip meals so their children can eat, older people who ration food to make their pension last, and working families who never expected to need support walk through their door.

This is happening in Wales now, and growers warn that extreme climate events are only complicating the problem.

Earlier this year, farmers were battling winter floods. Now, prolonged dry weather is placing fresh pressure on Welsh food producers, who warn the country is unprepared for the challenges ahead.

Campaigners say that these pressures do not just impact farmers’ livelihoods – they can also threaten the availability and affordability of food, at a time when many Welsh households are already struggling to put healthy meals on the table.

‘Climate chaos’

Ann Owen, a grower and Local Food Partnership coordinator in Ceredigion, said: “I wish people wouldn’t say ‘climate change’ or a ‘warming planet’. It’s climate chaos… Growers are exhausted.”

Even under normal conditions, farming is labour intensive work. But growers say they are now having to spend lots of time on top of their usual tasks keeping crops watered and fixing new irrigation systems. And sometimes it’s not enough.

Ann said: “Growers are also having to make difficult decisions on which crops to save and which ones to lose. It is heart-breaking to watch your crops die, especially after spending money on buying the seedlings, and the labour to get the fields prepared, planted, weeded and watered.”

More and more news stories capture the struggle of farmers who are fighting against the weather, like the Ceredigion grower who stayed up all night watering his crops.

David Langton told Cambrian News: “We’ve had plants dying within two days of planting – it just hasn’t rained. Last night I finished at 3am, one night I came in at 5.30am.”

The president of the Farmers Union of Wales, Ian Rickman, says that this weather is causing pressure for farmers.

“The prolonged dry weather is putting huge pressure on Welsh farms, with grass growth stalling, winter fodder already being used and water supplies becoming a growing concern,” Rickman explained.

“Farmers are adapting as they always have, but Government must play its part by introducing greater flexibility into support schemes, speeding up derogations where needed and investing in long-term water resilience to help the industry cope with increasingly unpredictable weather.”

But not everyone believes that Wales is learning lessons from these climate events. Campaigners add that the climate pressures will increasingly affect everyday life for people across Wales.

Ann said: “These recurring ‘blips’ are warnings and they are not being heeded.”

A food system built for export, not Wales

Wales should do more to support a local food system, campaigners say, warning that the country is vulnerable to supply chain shocks.

Over 90% of land in Wales is used for farming, but much of this is exported to other places. Of the red meat it produces, Wales consumes only 5% – which means that 95% of it is being exported.

Ann Owen paints the subsequent scenario faced by growers: “That leaves us incredibly exposed to disruptions in the import supply chain. We simply need to grow more food on Welsh farms for Welsh people and make it worthwhile for farmers to do so…

“At the same time, many small producers operate on very tight margins. They want to supply their local communities, but balancing affordability with the realities of running a sustainable food business isn’t always straightforward.”

She also warns that while our own food production is being disrupted by extreme weather events caused by climate change, so too are the countries we rely on for imports.

“We rely on imports for much of our fresh produce, often from European countries which are even more impacted by extremes in weather due to climate change. To assume that our fresh food imports will not be affected by the conditions in those countries is wishful thinking.”

Prioritising plants

Ann’s solution, “growing more food on Welsh farms for Welsh people”, is difficult to achieve in reality – she believes that this will require greater support for domestic fruit and vegetable production, which she says has been overlooked.

Campaigners say that Wales’ agricultural landscape is overwhelmingly geared towards livestock production, and that horticulture, or the growing of plants, is side-lined by policy makers.

More than 90% of the country’s land is farmed, mostly for sheep and cattle, while cereals occupy less than 3% of all agricultural land, according to the Welsh Government.

Ann says smaller fruit and vegetable growers receive less support despite producing more food per acre than livestock producers, and playing a key role in local food security.

“Horticulture needs more financial support. The agricultural subsidy system is based upon the needs of extensive stock farms and the size of the payment depends on the area farmed,” she explained.

“Most market gardens are small or medium scale, operate on 10-20 acres, but employ a lot more people as well produce vastly more calories per acre than a livestock farm.

“But because of the smaller land area farmed, the subsidies for horticulture do not reflect the cost of running those businesses.”

The ‘hidden’ crisis: Rural food poverty

Food insecurity, when a person lacks quality, variety, or enough food in their diet, according to a Senedd Committee, is not an abstract future issue – for many, it’s already a reality.

Paul Lucas, Co-founder of Local Welsh Food, said: “Many communities are surrounded by farms and food producers, yet residents may still have limited access to fresh, local produce.”

Between Cadoxton, a deprived area of Wales, and Cowbridge, an affluent area of Wales, there is a 20-year difference in healthy life expectancy. Janet Hayward says that access to healthy food is a major factor behind the gap.

The Equality and Social Justice Committee recently reported that 37% of people in Wales’ most deprived communities are food insecure.

Paul Lucas added: “From our perspective, food insecurity in Wales isn’t simply about a shortage of food. Wales produces an abundance of high-quality food, but the challenge is often ensuring that local people can access it consistently and affordably.”

Cadogs Corner Development Group is a charity in Barry that helps those dealing with food insecurity. They run a ‘pay as you feel’ food shop and provide emergency food for those who need it.

Katie Gooderman, the charity’s community and business manager, said: “We also need to remember that many people experiencing food insecurity remain hidden. Pride, stigma and fear can prevent people from asking for help, meaning there are many households struggling in silence.

“Rising living costs mean that many working families, older people, single-parent households and people living with long-term health conditions are finding it increasingly difficult to afford nutritious food. However, children are often the ones who experience the greatest long-term impact.

“The effects of food insecurity don’t end with an empty cupboard, they can shape a child’s development for years to come.”

Communities and collaboration

Slade Farm Organics work with communities to become ‘closer to the land’. Graeme Wilson, a farmer and grower at the farm, thinks that there is a fundamental problem with Wales in how people are connected to the food they eat. He said:

“From our perspective, one of the biggest challenges isn’t simply access to food, but people’s relationship with food.

“Many children (and adults) have become disconnected from where food comes from, how it is grown and how to prepare it.

“Alongside this, many communities have lost the places and opportunities where people naturally come together around food.

“That loss of connection can reduce confidence, skills and resilience over time.”

Paul Lucas agrees that small, community efforts can make a big difference. For Paul, strengthening local supply chains is the key.

He said: “We’ve also seen that relatively small initiatives can have a meaningful cumulative impact.”

“A community market, neighbourhood growing project or local procurement scheme may seem modest on its own, but together these kinds of initiatives contribute to a much stronger and more resilient local food network.”

Katie Goodman said: “One of the biggest lessons we’ve learned is that communities already have the answers, they simply need to be listened to.”

Katie believes that the Welsh Government must shift from crisis response to prevention.

She said: “Emergency food will always have a place, but long-term change comes from improving access to affordable, nutritious food, teaching cooking and growing skills, creating opportunities for people to connect, and supporting healthier lifestyles.

“Success shouldn’t be measured by how many food parcels we hand out, but by how many people no longer need them.”

A national food strategy – but is it enough?

The Farmers’ Union of Wales does not think that the UK governments have gone far enough to avert this crisis.

A spokesperson said: “The FUW believes that the risk of food shortages and overall food security is only increasing. This is being driven by a number of factors, not least climate change, global conflicts and policy direction.

“The latest UK Food Security Report published in 2024 highlights multiple threats and challenges to the productivity and sustainability of UK food production, but it is restricted to presenting an analysis of the available data and has no legal footing. This is why the FUW is calling for UK Governments to work in collaboration to develop a UK Food Security Metric that has statutory footing.”

“Beyond this, given that the Senedd’s Climate Change, Environment, Sustainability and Rural Affairs Committee will undoubtably have such a large remit, we believe there is a need for a Cross Party Group on Food System Resilience that focuses on the Welsh food system in particular whilst working with similar bodies in other UK nations.”

A spokesperson for the Welsh Government said: “The Welsh Government recognises the food security vulnerabilities and continues to work tirelessly to build resilience into our food and drink manufacturing and supply chains.

“The search for improved food resilience has led to the setting up of a new integrated Sustainability Service and a Climate Resilience Service to increase our business and supply chain sustainability, prepare for future climate events and to exploit business opportunities…

“While individual products can occasionally be affected by wider shocks and short-term supply pressures, our food system is generally resilient.”

But growers don’t seem to agree that Wales is doing enough to prepare for future shocks.

Ann Owen warned: “Food security is not created in a crisis. The longer we delay, the higher the cost and the deeper the suffering will be.”

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