Welsh whisky chosen to represent Europe in global study

Mark Mansfield

A Welsh whisky has been selected to represent Europe in what is believed to be the first scientific study comparing how different climates influence the way whisky matures.

Penderyn Distillery, in the foothills of the Brecon Beacons, is one of eight distilleries taking part in an international research project examining whiskies from every continent – including the world’s first whisky matured in Antarctica.

The six-month study is being led by Brazilian food scientist Dr Aline Bortoletto and her team at beverage research company INOVBEV in São Paulo. Researchers will compare the chemical composition and flavour profiles of eight single malt whiskies matured in dramatically different climates.

Scientists will use laboratory techniques, including gas chromatography, alongside a trained sensory panel to investigate how factors such as temperature and humidity influence whisky as it matures.

The project comes as “world whisky” continues to grow beyond its traditional heartlands of Scotland and Ireland.

Wales has become an increasingly recognised whisky-producing nation in recent years. In 2023, Single Malt Welsh Whisky was granted Protected Geographical Indication status – the first new UK spirit to receive the designation – recognising its distinctive geographical origin and production methods.

Penderyn revived commercial whisky production in Wales when it began distilling in 2000, more than a century after the country’s last commercial whisky distillery closed. The company now also operates distilleries in Llandudno and Swansea.

The study includes whiskies from Wales, Brazil, Canada, India, South Africa, Tasmania, New Zealand and Argentina. The Argentinian entry includes a whisky that spent three years maturing at Marambio Base, an Argentine research station in Antarctica, where temperatures can fall to -35C.

The research, titled Climate-Driven Maturation Signatures in Global Whisky: A Comparative Multi-Continental Chemical and Sensory Study, aims to provide the first scientific comparison of single malt whiskies matured across every continent.

Its findings are expected to be published in an international scientific report and presented at food and beverage science conferences.

Aista Phillips, master blender at Penderyn, said: “We’re proud to be representing Europe in this study. The climate we have here in Wales and the way we make whisky are unique to us, just as they are for every distillery around the world.

“It’s exciting to see what the science can tell us about how they shape the spirit, and to have our whisky in The 8 Continent Series, which shines a light on world whisky.”

‘Uncharted territory’

Dr Bortoletto said no previous study had compared whiskies matured in such varied environments.

“This is genuinely uncharted territory,” she said.

“No study has examined how single malt whisky matures across climates this different, from the heat of northern India to the freezing cold of Antarctica, and having a whisky matured in Antarctica among the samples makes it more remarkable still.

“By combining chemical and sensory analysis, we hope to give whisky lovers, and producers, a clearer picture of how different climates and place shape what ends up in the glass.”

Daniel Monk, curator of The 8 Continent Series, said the research reflected the growing international reach of whisky production.

“Wales has a unique place in whisky history, and Penderyn has played a central role in bringing that story back to life on the world stage,” he said.

“Including a Welsh whisky to represent Europe lets that history and modern craft be explored within a scientific study.”